After almost three years in Honduras I
have decided that it is time to move on and resume my Pan-American
journey southwards. The conservation and ecotourism project that I
have been helping to develop (
Montaña Santa Barbara - La Fuente de Vida) has now got
to a point where it can no longer grow solely on a voluntary basis.
We will be looking for external funding and if successful, my plans
may change yet again but if not, South America, here I come!
So one would think that the obvious way
to get to South America from Honduras is to head south but, for someone as geographically challenged as I, that would
be too conventional (you can see a map of my previous attempts at
https://share.delorme.com/RobertLambeck Unfortunately the wear and tear of 4 years
exploring the back roads from Alaska to Honduras have taken a toll on
my truck, and I felt that, in order to get it fit for the next stage
of the journey, I should take it back to the US where I thought
(wrongly) that I would find the expert mechanics that could get me
ready for the road south.
Flavia, a friend that I had made in
Honduras is travelling with me. She flew to the US to visit family
while I made a mad dash through Guatemala and Mexico to get to Austin, Texas as quickly as possible. We had arranged for her to meet me two weeks
later thinking the truck would be ready and we would hit the road.
How differently things turned out to be! Ford took almost a month to
replace the rear axle after telling us it should take two to three
days! Consequently we had to hire a car and stay in hotels while they
screwed us around. Unfortunately they kept telling us that it would
be ready next Wednesday, then next Monday, then next Thursday so we
felt that we should stay around Austin, taking short trips down to
the gulf coast and out to surrounding towns and state parks.
Eventually it became apparent that, after ordering all the wrong
parts it was going to take forever, so we jumped into the rental car
and headed north to New Mexico and then to Colorado to escape the
stifling 100+°F heat and stifling boredom of Texas.
I've always wondered why Texans are so
proud of their state (every third person is wearing a Texas t-shirt) and, after nearly three months there I have come
to realise why: it is flat – a few undulations are touted as “the
Texas Hill Country” - which would pass un-noticed in any other
state; only one National Parks – there are few natural or
scenic features that would warrant this status; the beaches are grey
with grey sloppy waves and a greasy on-shore wind that makes one
wander if the gulf oil spill is still leaving its legacy; the State
Parks are OK relative to the rest of Texas but most would not warrant
a mention in a list of national attractions. The majority of rural
towns are in a state of sad decay and the major cities are dominated
by shopping malls and outlet malls on the roads between them. Austin,
with its aim to “keep Austin weird” was a welcome cultural oasis
in an otherwise super conservative rampant capitalist red state.
Pecan Grove RV park on the south shore of the city, and the nearby
Shady Grove bar and restaurant, and Barton Springs, where we went for
our regular afternoon cool-off swims, saved out sanity. Thanks
Austin! Fredericksburg was also a great escape, thanks to its
excellent restaurants and bars and some great local music.
So why do Texans so proudly profess
their identity? Methinks it's a survival strategy to avoid acknowledging just how
incredibly ordinary the state is. In Texas, you begin to understand
how it is that Trump came to be and also why there is such a strong
anti-US sentiment abroad.
So a road trip to New Mexico and
Colorado was our survival strategy to avoid going completely mad. A
couple of days were spent in Las Cruces where we hiked in Organ Mountains park
and had an evening supper under the most spectacular stormy
sky with a backdrop of jagged mountains lit by the setting sun.
In Albuquerque we took to the
mountains of Cibola National Forest as well as scrambling over the dunes of the White
Sands National Monument.
In Colorado, we hung out with Flavia's brother in Boulder, drinking great beers and eating delicious food in cool bars, cafes and restaurants between exploring the surrounding mountains. It's amazing how a state border
crossing can transfer you into another world – sophisticated people
with a culture that is not based on cash alone. What a relief to be
out of Texas!
Finally got the word that the truck was
ready, so returned to Austin to pick it up – a month to put a Ford
axle in a Ford truck – crazy. But they had all sorts of reasons why
this was reasonable and why we should take the loss on hotels and car
hire rather than them. At the end of the day they are just little
workers trapped in the machine, and if looking after a client means
taking a loss for the company, then they are not going to do it –
because they will probably loose their job!
But the drama was not over – we still
had a fridge problem that needed addressing, and while it was being
worked on at Camping World, someone stole our solar panel. Again, not
their problem, even though I stacked our gear where they told us to.
More little people trapped in the machine. Everyone is incredibly
nice until something goes wrong, in which case the customer comes
last. Ah Texas!
Bought a new solar panel and then got a
phone call from Camping World 3 days later telling us that they had
“found” the solar panel in a trash dumpster, so I now have a
spare, even though I don't really have room in the truck to store it.
So finally, with everything sorted, we
hit the road, and made our way to the Mexican border. Whilst North
Americans are all terrified of Mexico, I find the US much scarier
and, frankly, I couldn't wait to be out of there.