|Preparing to depart Baja|
As the sun set over the dock at Pichilingue we did the little paperwork required before boarding the TMC ferry (about half the price of the Baja Ferries ferry) for Topolobampo. This ferry is used mainly by truckies, but as we were able to sleep in our vans the more basic conditions weren’t a problem. Sunrise saw us pulling into port on the mainland and we bumped ashore for the next step in our adventure.
|Sleeping birth on the TMC ferry|
It was immediately apparent that we were no longer in Baja. The soils were brown and the vegetation green. As we made our way towards El Fuerte we passed through fields of corn almost ready for harvest and paddocks full of workers extracting onions and potatoes from the fertile soils. On Baja, we really didn’t get the impression that it was spring, but here it almost slapped you in the face.
|Encounter with Zoro|
Our camp for the night was in the backyard of a delightful elderly couple who lived adjacent to the station and offered parking for people leaving their cars to take the train to the canyon.
|Railway station, El Fuerte|
Cañon del Cobre - Copper Canyon
We dismounted at Divisidero and took up residence for the night at the swanky Hotel Mirado which commanded spectacular views over el Cañon de Cobre. Whilst it was quite cloudy and a chill wind blew, the vistas were stunning and an afternoon walk took us around the cliffs and down to where the indigenous Rarámuri people lived in primitive houses built into the escarpment immediately below where we tourists stayed in 5 star comfort above their heads. In spite of their austere living conditions, the women are brightly dressed and make beautiful woven baskets and other trinkets. They are, however, very reserved, generally avoiding eye contacts and rarely smiling, which perhaps is not that surprising as we all traipse through their living areas. These people are known as “those who run fast” and are renowned for their ultra-marathon feats, usually conducted wearing sandals and traditional skirts.
|Red wine in the Calibri (hummingbird) bar|
|Calibri outside the hummingbird bar|